Three immigrant coffee roasters talk about Canadians’ love affair with java

November 3rd, 2016 Baisakhi RoyCommunity, Entrepreneurs, Featured, Leisure, People comments

Losel Tethong is co-founder and co-owner of Toronto's Propeller Coffee Co. By Saajid Motala

Walk into the spacious 50 Wade Ave. address of Toronto's Propeller Coffee Co. and the hip elegance of the place hits you like a breath of fresh air, accentuated, of course, with the delicious aroma of their brew. Rows of long wooden tables are occupied by millennials typing away at their laptops, reading newspapers or just chatting over a "cuppa." Propeller Coffee has quickly become a coffee destination of choice for the community in the Bloordale neighbourhood — a popular artists’ hub. Co-founder and co-owner Losel Tethong blends right in with his charming smile and passion for coffee culture. He has dedicated his career to creating the perfect cup of joe, at least since 2013, when he left his career as a sustainability consultant for Fortune 500 companies to get into the coffee roasting business.

"There is a greater move toward specialty coffee now," says Tethong, who was born in a Tibetan refugee settlement camp in India and raised in Victoria from five years old. "The third wave [a movement to produce high-quality coffee that is seen as an artisan or craft beverage, with improved processes in harvesting, storing and roasting] dictates that we let the beans and origins of the beans speak for themselves. Like with wines, people are interested about where their coffee comes from. They obviously demand a higher quality product now," he says.

Tethong would know a thing or two about quality; Propeller was named 2016's Micro Roaster of the Year by Roast Magazine, which is considered a top award in the coffee industry.

Salt Spring Coffee co-founders Robbyn Scott and Mickey McLeod. Photo courtesy Salt Spring Coffee

Californian-born Robbyn Scott, co-founder of Salt Spring Coffee agrees that people have become more discerning about their coffee choices. "I remember when we first opened in 1996 on Salt Spring Island in British Columbia, I observed customers taking a sip of our coffee and literally stopping in their tracks — they would come back into the café and ask me what I put in their coffee — it was so flavourful!" she laughs. Like Tethong, she acknowledges that while there will always be a soft spot for the Canadian staple — Tim Hortons — the demand for quality specialty coffee is on the rise and here to stay."

There is so much that goes into conjuring up that perfect cup, Scott explains. "Attention to detail is the key — from the way farmers grow their coffee, how they pick and then process the bean, how that bean is stored and roasted, ground, what water temperature is used to brew and even if the machine is clean or dirty — it all makes a difference. From seed to cup: it has to be a unique experience for the consumer," she says.

Beyond taste, there is also a trend toward healthier, sustainable choices. Roasters like Tethong and Scott are both leaders in this, as is Martha Bowen, CEO and founder of Latin Organics, a direct and fair trade coffee company in Vancouver that uses beans from her native home of Colombia.

"In the last 10 years, as consumers have become more educated in regards to healthier choices, there has been growth in the organic coffee industry," Bowen says. "Drinking coffee and being mindful should go hand in hand. If you are going to spend $4–5 in a cup of coffee, it better be the best. Not only the beans, but the whole preparation process. Smaller coffee shops know this and they try to keep themselves avant-garde in the subject."

Canadians’ love affair with coffee is without question. A recent Euromonitor survey had some eye-popping statistics — out of 80 countries, Canada ranked number one in coffee consumption, when counting up how many litres of coffee per capita were consumed.

Canada also scored third highest for the total amount of brewed coffee consumed both inside and outside the home — an average of 152 litres per person. Clearly, this country loves its java, no doubt in part because of the often cold weather.

"It is used as a comfort beverage. It makes people think that they will be able to survive the cold journey ahead if they have that black cup of java in their hands," says Bowen. "The West Coast may not have the colder temperatures seen in the rest of the country, but there is a lot of rain. Here, coffee has become a way of life. You carry your mug with you, wherever you go."

She adds: "In Vancouver, it is almost like a fashion statement; you have your rain boots, your rain jacket and, of course, your coffee as you rush throughout your day."

Coffee is also about community. "Propeller is surrounded by an eclectic mix of high tech companies, local artisans, business owners and residents. We are known for our customer service and we also support new cafe businesses by providing consulting services and supplies to set their business up. It all lends to building a close-knit community — a socially aware community that knows its brew," Tethong says.

Latin Organics owner Martha Bowen. Photo by Paul Joseph

For those who want a simple and easy way to make coffee, there is always the Colombian way. You boil your coffee — no fancy gadgets needed. Just a stainless steel smaller pot, to be used only for this purpose. Grind your coffee beans coarse. Place two teaspoons per cup into the water. Measure one cup per person of water. Once the coffee is in the water, bring the water to a boil. Let the coffee rest from the heat. Filter the grinds. Leave only the coffee. You can drink as is or add milk. Colombians like to drink a café con leche: half milk, half coffee.

With this recipe, you can also make a Colombian tinto. Just add brown sugar to your taste and serve it in a small espresso cup. It is like having candy in a cup!

— Martha Bowen

Baisakhi Roy

Baisakhi Roy, originally from India, is a Toronto-based contributor to Canadian Immigrant.